Post #59: Tongue of the Ocean

 Friday, February 5, 2021

The Tongue of the Ocean is a trench that rapidly plunges down to over 6000 feet from the surrounding banks.  We entered the tip of the Tongue at the Northwest Channel and the color of the water changed quickly from ultramarine to ink blue in a matter of moments! Divers describe that the trench suddenly appears.  They go from exploring a multi-hued reef to being suspended in “water space,” surrounded by sheer walls that plummet into depths of darkness.

We followed a commercial fishing boat through the narrow channel figuring they knew how to avoid the many coral heads.  It was dragging a net but at least one little fish (an Atlantic Spanish mackerel) escaped, only to be caught by Miss Adventure.  They later reported that it was delicious.

Once we came through the channel into more open waters the swells grew and the winds picked up.  We had all discussed the three possible options for today’s route:

• 40 more miles to the west end of New Providence Island (Nassau)
• 16 more miles to Chub Cay in the Berry Island
• 22 more miles to Morgan’s Bluff on Andros 

How fortunate we are to have found 6 boats that all agree on where to go next. The downside of heading to Chubb Cay is that it will add a day onto our trip to the Exumas but none of us wanted to slog 22 more miles bashing up and down into the wind in 4’ waves to get to Andros.

There’s a lot to be said for the art of compromise and the value of consensus. I don’t often inject politics into this blog but I am thinking maybe we ought to send our congressional delegates on a sailing trip together......

There were already two boats in the Chub Cay anchorage but we had seen them on moorings way back at Dinner Key Marina in Coconut Grove, FL, what seems like 6 months ago. There was plenty of room for us all.  We were pretty beat after the rolly night at anchor at Mackie Shoal the night before.  We heard from others the next morning that most of us had had a simple supper and were in bed by 7 p.m.

This was a good thing since the anchorage (although we had chosen it for protection from SE winds) turned out to be even more rolly than the night before!  Although the boats were all headed into the wind, the surge from the ocean wrapped around the point of the island and hit us all abeam, pitching us side-to-side ALL night long.

It was so uncomfortable that we had to grab onto a handhold just to keep from tipping over—even when seated! Unlocked cupboard doors flew open, a jar of mustard and a can of tomato sauce flew out and skittered across the floor; pots and pans clanked, and plates and cups banged around inside the cabinets.  And that’s not mentioning the noises emanating from the boat and rigging. First we tried laughing at the absurdity of our situation (in hindsight, we should have slogged to Andros) but by 1 a.m. it wasn’t funny anymore.  I tried to read, to listen to music, and finally took a Bonine to make the rolling and creaking and banging STOP. Unfortunately, that did not do the trick but finally by 5 a.m. blessed sleep arrived.  (Yes, Kathy Yourich Egan, there has now been a night when I longed for a hotel room!)

The next morning we learned that even the two dogs traveling with other boats had been miserable. Rick on Miss Adventure had built a fort of pillows to keep from falling off his bed and another couple had moved the settee cushions to the floor so they could finally fall asleep.

Ah, the idyllic life at sea.